Norway Adventures

This past August we had a wonderful trip to Norway.  I was in constant awe of the beauty of the country with all of its fjords, waterfalls, mountains, and wonderful nature.  While there, we discovered this poem by Jon Østeng Hov.  He is a Norwegian nature photographer , author and nature conservationist. He reminds me a lot of Colorado photographer John Fielder.  I tried to find an English translation of the poem without much success.  I put the words into Google Translate and here is how it translated.

Must greet from the mountain

 

Shall greet from the mountain
I will bid;
it looked so beautiful inside.
In the floods the myrduna wore a bride,
while the wings played such linen.

It was easy in the bush, it was such a choir,
and singing until my ear searched.
And ripe, my love, met my trail,
where the path along the pelvis broke.

It sparkled in the iron, it was shining in the wake,
and the joy in my chest broke.
Over the aurete, the big fish shone straight,
while the mountain breeze scratched the crust.

Weather hard stood mountain björk, windswept and low,
while nevera pleasantly smiled.
And underneath its lauvheng with joy I saw
that the wild reindeer was quivering.

To greet from the mountain – the eternal country
where the musk and the jervers live.
My longing in has become like a fire.
Only there I get peace and calm.

 – Jon Østeng Hov

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The mountains in Norway truly do greet you with a peace and calm as you take in their beauty!

We have written several blogs about our travels around Norway which you can find below.  We hope you enjoy and hope that reading our postings and viewing our photos provides you with some peace and calm as it did us.

Norway – Oslo

Norway: Oslo to Ulvik

Norway: Hardangerfjord

Norway: Ulvik to Hafslo

Norway: Aurlandsfjellet

Norway: Lustrafjorden & Nigardsbreen

Norway: Hafslo to Linge

Norway: Geirangerfjord & Linge

Norway: Linge to Andelsnes

Norway: Andelsnes to Oslo

Norway: Olso – Final Morning

Norway: Hafslo to Linge

Today we were heading north to Linge on the Storfjorden, taking the Sognefjellet National Tourist Route.  We woke up and looked out to see what the morning view was that greeted us today.  Every morning brought a different and photogenic view.

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After having breakfast, we packed up to head out.  A picture of our home for the past three nights.  If you are ever in this part of Norway, we highly recommend staying at the Hafslo Gjestehus.  Hosts Kiki and Remi were wonderful, provided much information about the area and were very friendly.

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Our route for the day to Linge.

Hafslo to Linge Map

Some beautiful shots taken just northeast of Skjolden on Eidsvatnet Lake.

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We continued up route 55, stopping a little further up the road to photograph a waterfall and some Highland cattle along the side of the road.

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We continued up the road, heading into the Jotunheimen Mountains. Jotunheimen (which translates as “The Home of the Giants”), is a 3500-square kilometer region that contains all of the 29 highest mountains in Norway.   We arrived at Nedre Oscarshaug.  This viewing area provides one of the best vantage points along the road across the Jotunheimen mountains and provides an overview of the surrounding Hurrungane massif.  The Hurrungane range has 23 peaks that reach over 2000 meters (6,600 feet).

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We continued up the road, making more stops to take in the spectacular scenery.

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Around every corner was more beautiful scenery.  At the Storevasskrysset crossroads in the center of the mountain plateau we stopped at the Mefjellet rest area where we enjoyed views of the Fanaråken glacier and its surrounding peaks.

Fannaråki mountain is 2,068-meters (6,785 feet) high. The Fanaråken glacier covers an area of about 6.2-square-kilometers (2.4 square miles).

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We also enjoyed the stone sculpture by Knut Wold at this rest area.

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These 6 memorial stones were erected in memory of the most tragic accident that ever happened in Sognefjell in March 1813 to 6 men from the Boverdverdalen Valley with horses who froze to death while crossing these mountains over to Sogn in search of grain.

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The summit of the pass sits at 1,434 meters, making the road northern Europe’s highest mountain pass.

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We began to head down from the pass, taking in more panoramic views.

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From route 55 we turned onto route 15, enjoying the scenery of the valley along the Otta river.

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We made a stop at the Nordberg Church which was built in 1864 and is octagonal in shape.

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We turned off of route 15 onto route 63, making our way towards Geiranger.  This is part of the Geiranger – Trollstigen National Tourist Route.  The scenery continued to be spectacular!

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We passed along the Djupvatnet, a lake that lies at 1,016 meters (3,333 feet) above sea level.

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We would see houses perched up on the sides of mountains.  What a spectacular view they have every day!

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We continued to wind our way through the mountain valley, heading down closer to Geiranger.

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Kvanndalsfossen

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We arrived at the  Flydalsjuvet viewpoint where we had our first great view of Geirangerfjord. Eidshornet Peak is the peak to the right with the snow.  It is 1,629 meters high.

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We continued on down to the village of Geiranger and then headed up the Ornesvingen eagle road.  The road ascends eleven hairpin bends that ascend the steep hillside from Geiranger towards Eidsdal. At the top lies the Ørnesvingen viewing point.  From here we had views towards Geiranger, across the Geirangerfjord with its near-perpendicular mountainsides, and the “Seven Sisters” waterfalls.

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The Seven Sisters waterfall is in the distance on the right.

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We headed on towards Eidsdal and took the ferry across to Linge, our home for the next two nights.  Linge is a small fruit farm community that lies right along the Norddalsfjord.

We met our host Elida in her fruit barn.  Our apartment was on the second floor of Elida’s fruit barn.  We immediately purchased some fresh fruit from her and then she took us upstairs to show us the apartment.

 

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The views looking across the fjord were stunning.

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We settled in and then headed over to Valldal to the grocery store to get some food for the next couple of days.

Enjoying the sunset from the apartment and the “purple mountain majesty”.

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Norway: Lustrafjorden & Nigardsbreen

Today’s adventures would take us to the Urnes Stave Church in Ornes, a drive around the Lustrafjorden and a hike up to the Nigardsbreen glacier.  We woke up with the clouds still lingering over Hafslo Lake.

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We had breakfast and left for the short drive (2.5 miles) to Solvorn to catch the ferry over to Ornes.  Our Airbnb host, Kiki, told us to get to the ferry a half hour before it departs as it is a very small ferry and only runs once every hour so if it’s full, we’d have to wait another hour before the next one.

Our route for the day.

Hafslo Glacier Map

We arrived in Solvorn, parked the car in the ferry line, and walked around the little village taking in the sunshine and reflections on the fjord.

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We boarded the ferry and made the journey across the fjord to Ornes.

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Some views of the countryside from the ferry as we were crossing the fjord.

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We docked in Ornes and drove up the hill to the church and purchased tickets for the tour that was to start in a few minutes.   Of the original approximately 1,000 stave churches in Norway, 28 remain. Urnes stave church is the eldest and most highly decorated of them.  The church was built around 1130 or shortly thereafter, and still stands in its original location.  It provides a link between Christian architecture and the architecture and artforms of the Viking Age with typical animal-ornamentation, the so-called “Urnes style” of animal-art.

The church is treated with pine tar which preserves the wood.  This gives the church the dark color.

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On the other side of the church the tar has weathered off.  You can see quite the contrast in the color of the wood.

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On the north wall there is an elaborately carved gateway.  In the field on the lower left there is an animal with a characteristic mane, a lion.  Over and around the lion there is a network of snakes and ring shaped animals partially attacking the lion, partially each other.

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Inside the church.

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Originally, light entered through small, round portholes.  This was the only form of natural light in the church.

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Windows were installed after the Reformation in the 18th century.

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Some of the diagonal cross braces were added in the Middle Ages to make room for an alter or ceremonial canopy.  Other braces were added later for reinforcement.  The ceiling is from the end of the 17th century.  It was originally an an open construction and resembled an upturned boat, where the rafters were similar to the ribs of a boat.

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This group of figures depicts the scene at Golgotha:  Jesus suffering on the cross and Mary and John as grieving witnesses.  They are from the 12th century, the oldest in the country.

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The Urnes style is characteristic of high quality stylized animals in battle.

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The wooden canopy above the altar was added in 1665. The altarpiece, which depicts Christ on the cross with the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist, dates from 1699.

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The pulpit was added in the 1690s (1693–1695).

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After touring the church, we headed on from Ornes to drive around Lustrafjorden.  Lustrafjorden is an approximately 40 kilometer long arm of the Sognefjord.  The fjord is surrounded by tall and steep mountainsides and, of course, waterfalls.

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Some captures of the wildflowers.

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A little further down the road we came to Feigefossen, a 229 meter high waterfall.  Here is shot from the road.

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There was a trail leading up closer to the waterfall which was quite steep and slippery.  The trail was rocky and also muddy with wet tree roots on the trail.  We proceeded up.

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After slipping and sliding our way back down to the car, we continued on our drive.

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We arrived at Skjolden at the end of the fjord and continued on around to the other side of the fjord to the small town of Luster and stopped at a bakery for a little snack.

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Across from the bakery was the Dale Church.  The church reflects both Romanesque and Gothic style. The medieval era church was built around the year 1240 and it was dedicated to Saint Nicholas. The church seats about 200 people.  We didn’t take the time to go in but did take a photo.

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From Luster we continued to Gaupne where we turned north onto route 604 towards the Nigardsbreen glacier.  Nigardsbreen is a glacier arm of the large Jostedalsbreen glacier and lies about 30 kilometers (19 miles) north of Gaupne in the Jostedalen valley. 

We made a short stop at the Breheim Center.  From here you could see the glacier snaking down the valley.

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From the center we took the short drive up to the parking lot to take the hike up to the base of the glacier.  In front of the Nigardsbreen is the lake Nigardsbrevatnet.

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We headed up the rocks.  There wasn’t so much a trail but markings on the rocks to show you which way to go.  We headed up towards the glacier.

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You can take a guided hike on the glacier itself.  We didn’t do this but we saw several groups on the glacier.

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A look back towards the lake.

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It was a little windy up by the glacier!

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We headed back down to the car and continued on back in the direction of Hafslo.  Several stops along the way to photograph more waterfalls.

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We arrived back at our apartment in Hafslo to take in the views from the lake again from our place.  Another beautiful day in the fjord lands of Norway!

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Norway: Ulvik to Hafslo

Today it was time to head north to our next destination of Hafslo.  It was another beautiful morning in Ulvik overlooking the Hardangerfjord.  Early morning before the sun came over the mountains.

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The sun now lighting up the fjord and the peaks.

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A close up of the community across the fjord.

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A view over to the farm next door.

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A view from inside the house to provide a perspective of the views from inside looking out.  What a beautiful location for this home!

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A drawing we found on a shelf in the living room – an obvious gift to the owner from another Airbnb guest.  We agree, thanks Knut for a fantastic stay in your home!

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We packed up and headed down into town.  The old barn at the bottom of the lane.

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We stopped to look around the Ulvik church before leaving town.  The church was designed by architect Hans Linstow and was built between 1857-1859.

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Each church pew had its own little door to get into the pew which I thought was interesting.

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More pictures from inside the church.

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After looking around the church and visiting a couple of local shops, we headed on our way out of Ulvik.  A beautiful little peaceful village we hated to say goodbye to.  Our route today would take us on routes Rv572, Rv13, and E16 to the town of Gudvangen.  From Gundvangen we took the Fjord2 cruise up the Naeroyfjord, Auralandsfjorden and Songnefjorden to Kaupanger (a 2 1/2 hour ferry cruise).  From Kaupanger we continued up routes 5 and 55 to the village of Hafslo on Hafslo Lake.

Ulvik to Hafslo

Our first stop on the drive was Skjervsfossen near Granvin.   It consists of two falls in succession, and drops 150 meters.

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A shot from above.

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Some of the many beautiful wildflowers near the falls.

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On to the next waterfall.  Tvindefossen is a waterfall near Voss, Norway. It is 12 km from Voss on the road to Flåm.  The many-stranded waterfall is 110 meters high and is formed by a small stream, the Kroelvi, tumbling over a receding cliff.

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We continued on down the road to Gudvangen which sits at the end of the Naeroyfjord to take the ferry to Kaupanger.  Our timing couldn’t have been any better.  Before our trip I was debating about booking this ferry ahead of time.  It runs at 9am, 12pm, 3pm, and 6pm daily.  However, I wasn’t sure of our exact route and didn’t want to commit to a particular day and time.  Since it was late in the season, I was hoping it wouldn’t be booked up. We left Ulvik in the morning and didn’t rush or leave any stops out.  We figured if we made the 3pm ferry, great, otherwise we would just wait for the 6pm departure.  We arrived at the loading ramp at 2:45pm and in a few minutes drove right onto the ferry!

The ferry starts out on the Naeroyfjord.  This 18-kilometer (11 mile) long fjord is only 500 meters (1,600 feet) wide in some parts and is surrounded by towering mountains up to 1,700 meters high.  It is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Sagfossen waterfall is found just after the entrance to the Naeroyfjord, on its northern side. It’s about 500 meters long, making it one of the highest of the multitude of waterfalls along the fjord.

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There were waterfalls everywhere we looked!  I could only imagine what it must be like in June when there is even more snow melt run off!

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There were many small hamlets along the fjord.

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The mountains were so green and beautiful as we cruised through the fjord.

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A view looking back in the direction we had come from.

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Approaching Kaupanger.

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We arrived, left the ferry and made our way up to Hafslo.  After checking into the Airbnb, we headed out to get some groceries at the grocery store before they closed.  Since it was Saturday, we wanted to make sure and get what we needed as our host let us know that they are closed on Sundays.

We passed by some cows on our way to the store and had to stop for a few pictures.

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Time to have some dinner and call it a day.  It was a beautiful and very scenic drive today.